Understanding the Different Types of Reactivity in Dogs

Reactivity in dogs is a common behavioural issue that can leave owners feeling frustrated or unsure about how to help. Reactivity isn’t a one-size-fits-all problem—it can manifest in different ways depending on the dog, their environment, and their past experiences. Understanding the specific type of reactivity your dog is displaying is the first step toward addressing it effectively. Let’s break down the most common types of reactivity in dogs and what they mean.

1. Lead Reactivity

Lead reactivity is one of the most frequently observed forms of reactivity. Dogs that are lead-reactive may bark, lunge, or growl at other dogs, people, or even vehicles while on a walk. This behaviour often stems from frustration or fear caused by the restricted movement of the lead.

• Frustration: Dogs who are eager to interact with other dogs or people may become frustrated when the lead prevents them from doing so. This frustration can escalate into barking or lunging.

• Fear or Anxiety: For some dogs, being on a lead can increase their sense of vulnerability, making them react defensively to perceived threats.

Lead reactivity can be addressed through desensitisation and counter-conditioning, as well as teaching loose-lead walking techniques to create a calmer walking experience. Once your dog understand the rules you've put in place by using the lead to communicate to them, walks become more enjoyable and you become more confident, which signals to them that this is a positive experience.

2. Barrier Reactivity

Barrier reactivity occurs when a dog reacts to stimuli on the other side of a physical barrier, such as a fence, window, or crate. Dogs may bark, growl, or scratch at the barrier as they try to get closer to—or away from—the trigger.

This type of reactivity is often driven by the same emotions as lead reactivity: frustration, fear, or excitement. For example, a dog may bark at people passing by the window because they can’t greet them or chase them away.

Reducing barrier reactivity often involves managing the environment (e.g., closing curtains, keeping them on a lead indoors to prevent outbursts) and working on impulse control exercises to help the dog stay calm around triggers. Impulse control activities can be demonstrated in play sessions and desensitisation using food as a reward for ignoring triggers and focusing on you.

3. Dog-to-Dog Reactivity

Dog-to-dog reactivity happens when a dog reacts intensely to other dogs, whether on or off-lead. This type of reactivity can result from various factors, including:

• Lack of Socialisation: Dogs that haven’t been properly exposed to other dogs during their critical socialisation period may feel unsure or overwhelmed around them.

• Negative Experiences: Past traumatic interactions with other dogs can make a dog fearful or defensive.

• Overexcitement / Hyper-Social: Some dogs are so eager to play or interact with other dogs that they react with uncontrollable energy, which may be misinterpreted as aggression.

  
  

Training a dog with dog-to-dog reactivity involves carefully controlled socialisation, which includes exposure to dogs while training desensitisation. Most dog-to-dog reactivity can stem from poor communication with the lead - if your dog is a seasoned puller, this only adds fuel to the fire. Focusing on training loose-lead walking away from distractions and slowly introducing triggers is a great way to start working on their behaviour.

4. Fear-Based Reactivity

Fear-based reactivity occurs when a dog feels threatened or scared by a specific stimulus, such as people, noises, or other animals. This type of reactivity often stems from past trauma, poor socialisation, or a naturally timid temperament.

Common signs of fear-based reactivity include:

• Barking, growling, or snapping as a way to create distance.

• Avoidance behaviours, such as cowering or attempting to flee.

Fear-based reactivity requires patience and understanding. Gradual desensitisation and counter-conditioning can help the dog feel safer around their triggers. True nervousness and anxiety is vastly different from a dog that just wants to be left alone. A dog that is truly fearful will display other behaviours in the home, such as serious separation anxiety (barking for hours, panting and salivating excessively and hurting themselves trying to escape an enclosed space while being left), being startled by the smallest of sounds even in sleep, and cowering / hiding when they are fearful. An introverted dog is mostly fine in the home, independent and just doesn't like other dogs interacting with them. The former is a behaviour that will be very tricky to handle without the supervision of a professional dog trainer. The latter is much more manageable.

5. Resource Guarding Reactivity

Resource guarding reactivity occurs when a dog becomes defensive over items they consider valuable, such as food, toys, or even their owner. This type of reactivity is often rooted in a natural instinct to protect resources, but it can become problematic if it leads to aggressive behaviour.

Signs of resource guarding include growling, snapping, or freezing when someone approaches the guarded item. Addressing this behaviour involves controlling all areas of access to these items, and if there are multiple dogs in the home - separating them is paramount.

The one thing I will always tell a dog owner is to never mess with your dogs food. If they eat out of a bowl, don't try and put your hands in or grab areas of their body - leave them to it. If they are guarding their food, the best thing to do is to start hand feeding - it's like they say 'don't bite the hand that feeds you'. Don't leave food around the house for their to access freely, make sure they understand that all good things come from you, and not on their terms.

6. Noise Reactivity

Some dogs react strongly to certain sounds, such as thunderstorms, fireworks, or even household appliances. Noise reactivity can range from barking to more severe signs of distress, such as pacing, whining, or hiding.

Noise-reactive dogs may benefit from desensitisation to the specific sounds that upset them, as well as providing a safe space where they can retreat during loud events. Desensitisation tactics would be to build their food motivation and feed them in increasingly difficult scenarios. A great activity would be box feeding - if you haven't heard of it before, it's a strategy to help dogs overcome irrational fear of their environment - information on this can be found on YouTube.

7. Stranger Reactivity

Stranger reactivity occurs when a dog reacts negatively to unfamiliar people. This type of reactivity can be fear-based or protective in nature. Dogs with stranger reactivity may bark, growl, or display defensive body language when approached by someone they don’t know.

To overcome this type of reactivity, you must build a marker and set up scenarios with friends or family to help. A desensitisation session may look like teaching a 'touch' command and encouraging your dog to touch a new person and marking it with a clicker to come back to you and be rewarded. This can be built over time.

8. Prey Drive Reactivity

Prey drive reactivity occurs when a dog reacts to fast-moving objects or animals, such as squirrels, birds, or cyclists. This behaviour is instinctive and rooted in the dog’s natural hunting instincts.

While prey drive is a normal trait in many dogs, it can become dangerous if not managed properly. Training a reliable recall through motivation and play can help redirect your dogs instinct to search for prey by replacing it with a similar outlet of fetch, tug or flirt-pole play sessions.

How to Address Reactivity

Regardless of the type of reactivity your dog exhibits, the key to improvement is understanding the underlying cause of their behaviour. A combination of management, training, and patience can make a world of difference. Seeking professional help from a dog trainer or behaviourist can also provide tailored strategies to help your dog overcome their specific challenges.

Reactivity doesn’t define your dog—it’s simply a behaviour that can be changed with the right approach. By taking the time to understand and address their needs, you’ll build a stronger bond with your dog and help them lead a happier, more balanced life.